All Cook Must Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.